When it comes to nail extensions, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer—what’s "better" depends on what you need as a nail tech and what your client prefers. In recent years, there has been a shift toward clients prioritizing overall health, including the products used on their nails. This has led to the development of products like HEMA-free builder gels and HEMA-free gel polishes.
Hard gel is becoming an increasingly popular choice for nail extensions, but it’s not the only option. Acrylics and soft builder gels are also widely used, and each nail system has its pros and cons.
So, is hard gel the best choice for nail extensions? Let’s take a closer look.
What Are Nail Extensions Typically Made From?
Nail extensions are typically made from:
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Acrylic Powder & Liquid – The traditional choice for strong, sculpted nails.
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Hard Gel – A durable gel alternative cured under UV or LED light.
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Builder Gel (Soft Gel) – A soak-off gel that provides structure and strength.
Each system has its own application method, durability, and removal process, making them suited to different client needs and preferences.
Pros and Cons of Hard Gel for Nail Extensions
Pros of Hard Gel Extensions
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Lightweight & Natural Feel – Hard gel tends to be more flexible than acrylic, making it feel lighter on the nail while still offering strength.
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Non-Porous & Resistant to Lifting – Unlike acrylics, hard gel is non-porous, meaning it won’t absorb moisture or discolor over time. It also adheres well to the natural nail, reducing lifting when applied correctly.
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Smooth, Glossy Finish – Hard gel naturally self-levels, creating a sleek, high-shine finish without excessive buffing.
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More Durable Than Soft Gels – While builder gel (soft gel) provides strength, hard gel is more durable and resistant to chipping, making it a great choice for long extensions.
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Ideal for Clients with Frequent Water Exposure – Because it’s non-porous, hard gel is an excellent option for clients who frequently have their hands in water, such as hairdressers or healthcare workers.
Cons of Hard Gel Extensions
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Not as Strong as Acrylic – While hard gel is durable, it doesn’t have the same rigid structure as acrylic, making it slightly more prone to cracking under extreme pressure.
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Curing Time – Hard gel requires UV or LED curing, which adds time to the application process compared to acrylic, which sets in the air.
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Cannot Be Soaked Off – Unlike builder gel, hard gel cannot be removed with acetone. Instead, it must be filed off, which requires skill to avoid damaging the natural nail.
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Less Sculpting Control – Some nail techs find acrylic easier to sculpt into extreme shapes compared to hard gel, which can be runnier and requires a different technique.
So, Is Hard Gel the Best Choice?
Hard gel is an excellent option for nail extensions, especially if you’re looking for a lightweight, flexible, and glossy finish. It’s ideal for clients who want a strong yet natural-feeling enhancement and those who are regularly exposed to water. However, if maximum durability or extreme shaping is the priority, acrylic may still be the best choice.
Ultimately, the best nail extension system depends on the client’s needs and your preferred working style. That’s why it’s always beneficial to have multiple options in your kit—so you can create the perfect set of extensions every time.